(written exclusively for Kent Life and published in their February 2024 edition)
For centuries, winemaking has been a world of careful traditions. Rows of vines, pruned and manicured to perfection, have defined the craft for generations. But as the challenges of modern agriculture grow — climate change, soil depletion, and the ever-increasing demand for sustainable practices — a new philosophy is shaking up the vineyard: biodynamic viticulture. Forget monoculture and chemical quick fixes; this approach looks at the vineyard as a living, breathing organism where the vines thrive in harmony with the land, the cosmos, and even a bit of moon magic.
Inspired by the teachings of Rudolf Steiner and Maria Thun, biodynamic farming treats the vineyard as a self-sustaining ecosystem. Composting and herbal preparations, like nettle and chamomile teas, enrich the soil naturally, while cover crops attract beneficial insects and boost biodiversity. Tasks such as pruning and harvesting are guided by lunar cycles, believed to influence the energy and growth of the vines. It might all sound mystical, but the results — healthier soils, thriving vines, and wines bursting with character — are hard to argue with.

One vineyard fully embracing this movement is Ham Street Wines in Kent — one of only seven certified biodynamic vineyards in the UK! Established in 2019, the estate is run by husband-and-wife duo Lucie and Jules who have turned their 10-acre vineyard into a thriving ecosystem. “By working with nature, instead of seeking to control it, we are able to produce more resilient vines with consistent yields — something that is very much needed as climate change brings more unpredictable weather events,” says Lucie. Their approach includes no-till farming to preserve soil health, biodynamic preparations to enrich the land, and fostering a thriving ecosystem of insects, birds, and bees. “Biodynamics enables our site to become better connected in an increasingly fast and disconnected world,” Jules explains. “We feel more connected to the vines, the flora and fauna that we share the vineyard with, as well as our wines and a community of people that want to engage in understanding, learning and supporting holistic farming and production.”
What makes biodynamics so exciting isn’t just the harmony it creates in the vineyard — it’s the results in the bottle. Ham Street’s wines are vibrant, refreshing, and unapologetically unique. Each and every style is crafted to showcase the best of that particular vintage, with minimal additions and interventions in the winery. This hands-off approach means their wines vary year on year, and some styles only appear when nature delivers something special. It’s a method that’s as bold as it is rewarding, and it leads to wines with real personality. From their current release, my absolute favourite is Carbonnay — a playful nod to the Chardonnay grape with a subtle twist. It’s zippy and fresh, with bright citrus notes and a beautifully creamy finish that’s hard to resist. Whether paired with a light salad or sipped on its own, it’s the perfect example of what biodynamic winemaking can achieve when nature is allowed to shine.

What’s exciting is that every year, Ham Street invites wine lovers to experience their philosophy firsthand through volunteer days where participants can roll up their sleeves and get a taste of biodynamic vineyard life. Veni, vidi, vici. I left with a new appreciation for the work behind the wine… and a few aching muscles! It’s clear that Ham Street Wines isn’t just growing grapes — they are rethinking how we farm, connect with the land, and make wine altogether, pushing the boundaries of what English wine can be. I, for one, want to be in the first row, as this revolution reshapes the future of winemaking.
Comments