(written exclusively for Kent Life and published in their July 2024 edition)
Is it just me or is orange wine as famous as Robbie Williams used to be ?! Some years ago, it was hardly heard of and fairly hard to come by. Nowadays, if you walk into a wine bar, and they don’t have at least a couple of orange wines on offer, you feel like asking the manager, “What is wrong with you ?” No wonder some call orange wine the new rosé. I am definitely one of them! But what’s the deal with orange wine and why is it so popular in the UK now ?
Orange wine, also known as skin contact or amber wine, is somewhere in between white and red. It is made using white grape varieties but fermented in a similar way to red wine. Instead of squeezing out the juice, the grapes are fermented with their skins and left in contact for anything between a few days to a few months. This process results in wines that have more tannins, more complexity, and a slightly orange hue.
Depending on the grape variety and the winemaking process used, orange wines can range in their flavour profile from peach, bruised apple, and jasmine to dried orange peel, honey, and baking spices. Whichever way it is, orange wine tastes like nothing you’ve had before. It’s bold, dry, with a pleasant grip from tannins, a touch or sourness, and a whole lotta natural acidity. It is precisely that combo that makes orange wines incredibly versatile - you can chill them for an áperitif or serve them at room temperature to pair with a wide variety of dishes. If you go for the latter, look for food with bold flavours to match the boldness of the wine, e.g., strong cheeses, spicy Asian curries, or honey-glazed roasted root vegetables.
It all sounds so yummy I’m sure you aren’t surprised that orange wine is having a moment, are you ? But don’t get fooled into thinking this is just a trend. The orange winemaking dates back thousands of years to what is now Georgia (the country, not the US state!). Them folks started to ferment the wines in large egg-shaped vessels called qvervi buried underground. The qvervi winemaking is still widely used in Georgian wineries nowadays, gaining popularity among producers around the world, from the United States to Italy to Australia. It was only a matter of time before England got on the act, too!
England's first orange wine was 2014 Orange Bacchus by Kent’s Chapel Down. Litmus Wines and Denbies, both in Surrey, followed in 2016 and 2021, respectively, with their orange wines. Although orange wine in England is being made on a teeny tiny scale, it is most definitely growing. More and more winemakers are jumping on the orange bandwagon, trying different techniques and grape varieties, pushing the quality up. There is a lot to explore! Beyond the big players, I have hunted down a couple of delicious orange wines from remarkable Kent wineries for you to enjoy on a sunny Sunday afternoon.
Ham Street & Offbeat Wines, Bacchus Skin Contact 2022
Made using organically certified grapes, this 100% Bacchus will woo you with its complex palate and aromas of rich yellow fruit, rhubarb, beeswax, and a touch of spice. There are only 288 bottles of this beaut, so you may want to hurry up! Chill it lightly before serving.
Westwell, Ortega Skin Contact 2022
This wine is not just a pretty label, which you must admit is pretty awesome! Expect a complex palate with flavours of peach, apricot, mango, orange peel, and honey - I swear it should count as one of your five-a-day!
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