(written exclusively for Kent Life and published in their September 2024 edition)
Who would have thought that climate change could turn out to be a secret ingredient in quality English wine ? As global temperatures rise, so does the quality of wine produced by Britain’s vineyards, transforming the once modest wine scene into a remarkable success story. Our wines are now comfortably winning global awards even when competing against such celebrated regions as France, Italy, or Spain. How come the shifting weather patterns are making our wines so unexpectedly fabulous ?
Wine in England has been produced commercially since the 1960s. That said, it had a hella dubious reputation, as it was produced mainly from Germanic grape varieties that thrive in cooler climates. As a result, the wines lacked elegance, tasted oddly acidic, and had a watery mouthfeel (thank heavens I didn’t live then!). In the 1980s, wine brands like Nyetimber started moving away from Germanic varieties towards the French vines such as Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. The next thing you know, English sparkling wine started winning awards and coming out top in blind tastings. Boom!
From the 80s onwards, planting the right mix of grapes, with help from warming temperatures, has given the English winemaking industry its new-found reputation. The continuous shift in weather patterns means that today’s temperatures in southern England are said to be similar to those in Champagne around fifty years ago. And seeing that we have similar soils rich in chalk and we plant the three classic Champagne varieties (Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and Pinot Meunier), it’s no wonder Britain is producing a beverage that is just as good as Champagne, and often better if compared at the same price point (don’t tell the French I said that!).
“Forty years ago, we wouldn't have dreamt of planting Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, but in 2014, when we planted, they were already firmly on the radar, as temperatures rose. Even then, we thought Chardonnay might be a bit of a risk and put it in the most sheltered area of our vineyard, but now it is the most planted vine in England,” says Hester Fenwick, the owner of Brabourne Vineyard, set in the heart of Kent countryside. Brabourne Vineyard is a family-run estate that focuses on premium wines made from Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. The vines, which cover just over two acres, benefit from the south-west facing aspect and the perfect clay soils over chalk, producing high-quality traditional-method sparkling and wines.
Brabourne Vineyard is part of the booming British wine industry, as the climate warms and the conditions in the UK become increasingly favourable for grape growing. “It's an exciting area to work in - we have more and more visitors coming for tours who are already fans of English wine and want to discover new vineyards. Some are aiming to visit all of the vineyards in Kent - now over one hundred with new ones being planted all the time. It's like Munro bagging but with new mountains being added as you go,” adds Hester. Britain is currently the fastest-growing region in the world, as reported by Knight Frank. And according to a 2022-2023 industry report by WineGB, the national body for UK grape growers and winemakers, there are 900+ vineyards in the UK - triple the number 20 years ago! This figure is only set to grow rapidly, as the increasing season temperatures over the next couple of decades will further Britain’s potential for wine production.
The English wine scene has never looked so exciting and so poised to flourish. So put down that Vintage Champagne and instead raise a glass of English bubbly to toast for the bright future ahead!
Natalia’s Picks
Salburga Rosé 2022, 12%, £18 - this WineGB Bronze Medalist offers intense aromas of peach and strawberry and crisp refreshing acidity that will remind you why you love rosé so much!
Classic Cuvée 2018, 11.5%, £33 - Chardonnay and Pinot Noir come together to produce this rich yet delicate sparkle with enchanting notes of stone fruit and creamy mouthfeel. Absolute crowd pleaser!
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