(written exclusively for the 'cene magazine and published in their March/April 2024 edition)
You gotta love the beginning of spring! With days getting longer and sunnier, you slowly wake up from the winter slumber, your wallet has recovered from last year’s festivities and you are no longer socially obliged to cut down on all your favourite things for Dry January and Damp February (who the heck has invented those, anyway?!). As new buds blossom, so does the restaurant scene. Indulge once more because, boy, I have hand-picked some blooming (pun intended!) great restaurants and wines for you to try this spring. Let’s see what’s for dinner!”
THE CORNER HOUSE, 1 DOVER STREET, CANTERBURY CT1 3HD
Set just outside Canterbury’s city walls, The Corner House is a beautifully-restored medieval coach house that dates to 1574. It has continued, under various names, to serve Kentish ales through to today and is rumoured to have served a pint or two to Charles Dickens (who, I bet, didn’t do Dry January!).
The venue is owned and run by chef Matt Sworder, a protégé of Gordon Ramsay, who embraces its Kentish heritage while elevating it from pub to restaurant. The rustic charm, sumptuous food and exquisite wines make The Corner House one of Canterbury’s most popular eateries to visit. Small wonder it has scooped several Kent Restaurant of the Year awards.
Confit pork belly, burnt ends croquette, apple butter, mash, savoy cabbage, cider jus
“I’m not a great fan of a perfectly-cooked pork belly,” said no one ever. Crispy on the outside, tender on the inside, that’s what I call poetry, and I’m a vegetarian! This confit pork belly is a true Corner House favourite and it will pair beautifully with a glass (or two!) of juicy Pinot Noir. The higher acidity will cut through the fat, cleansing your palate between one bite and another, while the saltiness of the dish will bring out the fruitiness and juiciness of the wine. A WineGB Awards 2023 Bronze medallist, Luke’s Pinot Noir 2022 from Balfour Winery, Kent, sounds like an obvious choice to pair with this pork belly that is worthy of a medal!
Top pairing tip: Pair fatty meats with high-acid wines.
Butternut squash wellington, tenderstem broccoli, miso whipped tofu, celeriac, tomato dressing
Veggies, don’t think I forgot about you! If you typically feel like you are not catered for properly when dining out, you are in for a pleasant surprise. This veggie wellington is deliciously seasoned and wrapped in a fantastically moreish, crispy pastry. To elevate your experience to epic, pair it with a fuller-bodied Chardonnay. The rich texture of the wine will complement the buttery quality of the squash and pastry and the wine’s bright citrus notes will offset the creaminess of the dish. Heavenly… I’d wholeheartedly recommend Ashdown Valley View 2020 from Bluebell Vineyard Estates, East Sussex.
Top pairing tip: Mirror a flavour. Chardonnay and butternut squash is an example of mirroring as both are rich, opulent, and creamy.
BOWLEYS AT THE PLOUGH, TAYLORS LANE, TROTTISCLIFFE, WEST MALLING ME19 5DR
The Plough is not your average countryside pub! In 2017, it was set to be sold off to property developers, before 120 villagers came together to raise enough money to buy it. The running of the venue was taken over by the dynamic father-and-son duo of wine merchant and connoisseur David Yates and his Michelin-trained head chef son Alex, who have been relentlessly delighting their customers with carefully-crafted homemade dishes and local wines. The location is idyllic, perfect for a romantic lunch or dinner, sitting on a quiet lane of the quintessentially English village of Trottiscliffe.
Atlantic cod, Conwy mussels, Argentinian prawn & chard
The seafood-lovers will go “Wowza!” for this cooked-to-perfection dish that is a feast for the palate as well as the eyes (did I say that head chef Alex spent two years at The Goring Hotel under Shay Cooper?!). It will pair beautifully with a lighter-bodied Bacchus with vibrant acidity. The delicate elderflower character of the wine will match the delicate seafood on the plate without overwhelming it and the saltiness of the fish will increase the perception of fruit in the wine. I’d recommend Tenterden Estate Bacchus 2022 from Chapel Down, Kent.
Top pairing tip: Delicate to delicate, bold to bold.
Kentish Roots (VG) wild mushroom tartlet, port reduction and ginger
Spring is a great time to start indulging in seasonal produce. Go wild and go local with this flavoursome dish that celebrates the abundant Kentish larder. Just as anything at The Plough, this is not your regular mushroom tartlet and, as such, it requires not-your-regular tipple. How about a sip of Gamay? (You didn’t see that one coming, did you!) The umami flavour in the mushrooms will work well with the lower levels of silky tannins in the wine. The earthiness of the mushrooms will also act as a counterbalance to the bright fruits in the wine. If you’re sold on the idea, try Gamay Noir 2022 from Biddenden Vineyards, Kent.
Top pairing tip: Pair umami-rich foods with low-tannin red wines.
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